If you only have one day for the mountains around Cusco, the choice is usually between two: Humantay Lake and Vinicunca Rainbow Mountain. Both are full-day trips, leave before dawn and need some acclimatisation, but they are nothing alike: one is a turquoise lake beneath a glacier and the other a slope of mineral stripes at 5,200 metres. This guide compares them so you can choose the one that suits you best.
The comparison in a table
| Humantay Lake | Rainbow Mountain | |
|---|---|---|
| What you see | Turquoise lake, Humantay glacier and Salkantay | Red, ochre and green stripes, and Ausangate peak |
| Maximum altitude | 4,200 m | 5,200 m |
| Hike | About 3 km and 300 m of ascent, steep in places | About 5 km uphill to 5,200 m, gentle gradient |
| Time up | 1 h 30 to 2 h | 1 h 30 to 2 h |
| Departure from Cusco | 4:00 | 3:30 |
| Length of the day | About 12 hours | About 14 hours |
| Horses | Yes, to near the lake | Yes, to near the viewpoint |
| Minimum acclimatisation | One or two days in Cusco | Two days in Cusco |
| Our private tour | From 89 USD | From 89 USD |
Difference 1: altitude
This is the difference that matters most. Humantay is at 4,200 metres; the Rainbow Mountain viewpoint, at 5,200 (both compared with Cusco and every other destination in our altitude table). Those 1,000 metres are very noticeable, even with a similar hike. If you have been in Cusco only a few days or the altitude has affected you, Humantay is the sensible choice. We explain it in the acclimatisation guide.
Difference 2: the hike
Here the order is reversed. The Humantay climb is shorter but steeper, especially the last half hour of zigzags. The Vinicunca trail is longer but follows a wide path with a gentle gradient. In time they are similar: an hour and a half to two hours uphill for both. Both have horses for those who would rather not walk.
Difference 3: the scenery
At Humantay the star is the colour of the water and the glacier ice just above it, with Salkantay behind. At Vinicunca, the striped slope from the photo, with Ausangate beside it. If you love mountain lakes, Humantay. If you want Peru’s iconic image, Vinicunca.
Difference 4: the day
Humantay is a slightly shorter day, about twelve hours leaving at four. Rainbow Mountain takes about fourteen, leaving at half past three, because the road is longer. Both include breakfast and lunch on our private tours.
Which to choose
- Choose Humantay if you have been in Cusco only a few days, prefer to stay below 4,500 metres, love lakes and glaciers or want a slightly shorter day.
- Choose Rainbow Mountain if you have had at least two days to acclimatise, want the most famous view and prefer a gentle trail even if it is longer.
- If you do not want to walk at all, there is a third option: Palcoyo, a rainbow mountain the vehicle reaches almost to the top. We compare it in Vinicunca or Palcoyo.
What about doing both?
You can, on different days and never back to back. The logical order is Humantay first, because it is lower, and Rainbow Mountain two or three days later. In between, an easy day in the Sacred Valley or the South Valley, both below Cusco, helps your body. How the mountain fits into a short trip is covered in Cusco in 4 or 5 days.
If you have already seen Rainbow Mountain, there is another rainbow mountain with almost no visitors: Pallay Punchu, the poncho-shaped rainbow mountain, with vertical ridges at about 4,700 metres and a moderate climb of an hour and a half to two hours.
Frequently asked questions
Which is harder, Humantay or Rainbow Mountain?
By altitude, Rainbow Mountain. By gradient, Humantay. For most travellers altitude matters more, so Humantay feels easier.
Which is better with children?
Neither is ideal for young children. With older, acclimatised children, the gentlest option is Palcoyo, with a thirty-minute, almost flat walk.
Which is less crowded?
Both get many visitors between ten and twelve. In both cases, leaving before dawn on a private tour is what makes the difference.
Can you do them on the same day?
No. They lie in opposite directions from Cusco and each takes a full day.
Which is better in the rainy season?
Both run all year. In the rains, the Humantay trail is more slippery and Vinicunca can wake up under snow, which clears with the sun.
Book your mountain day
- Private Humantay Lake and the complete Humantay guide.
- Private Rainbow Mountain or, with more scenery, Rainbow Mountain and Red Valley.
- What to pack, valid for both.